During a recent mountain run in the Wasatch during a light snowstorm I cam across a couple of guys holding ice axes. They were wearing snowboard pants and jackets coupled with Jansport school backpack style packs. I was intrigued to say the least. I was wishing I had snowshoes with me to keep from post-holing through the deep fresh snow and here were a couple of guys that seemed rather out of place considering their gear and attire. I asked a couple of questions and soon learned that they had been climbing Mt. Timp via Everest Route. Although I have run Timp plenty of times I had to admit I had never heard of the route.
Mt. Timp via Everest Route, it had an interesting ring to it. All I really found out from the couple of climbers is that this was one of their first alpine climbing trips and that the Everest Route was an awesome winter route. I wished the two luck on future trips and headed home spurred by the very brief conversation to investigate a little bit more.
The route was made possible by the Utahn’s on Everest, a group in the early 1990’s that used the route as training for a summit bid on Everest. Mt. Timp via Everest Route is a rather straightforward climb from my studies, but it is a beast of an ascent given the killer elevation gain. To me it sounds like a good time!
I texted my buddy Josh and send some images and states I had found on SummitPost.org and Google Images. His response, “I’m keen!” That’s just the answer I was looking for, and no the preparation and planning begin.
To climb Mt. Timp via Everest Route includes about 6,300 ft of elevation gain in 4.35 miles. There are a number of trailhead options that proceed to the Everest Route proper and we will likely take the Dry Canyon approach. We both live pretty close to Dry Canyon and I regularly run the maze of trails that branch from that trailhead.
Once the saddle between Big Baldy and Mt. Timp is reached then it’s all uphill from there until the summit ridge is reached. The route appears straightforward and follows a long ridge from the saddle to the summit ridge. From the information I have been able to gather the climb is non-technical, except for “The Step” which is the crux of the climb.
From my reading “The Step” comes just below the summit ridge and can be approached in one of two ways.
The first option is to proceed straight up the ridge through a rock band that requires a class four scramble.
The second option is to traverse the rock band to the right which requires a steep and exposed snow crossing.
From there Mt. Timp via Everest Route continues along the summit ridge to the summit proper. All in all the Everest Route sounds like an amazing climb full of awe-inspiring beauty and breathtaking climbing (literally). At this point Josh and I are waiting for winter to officially hit so the route gets filled with snow and conditions improve for proper climbing. As much as I admire all climbers of any experience, I don’t plan on climbing during a light snowstorm as my two acquaintances.
So, here’s the point where you help me out! Who has climbed Mt. Timp via Everest Route? Tell me about your experience below if you have. Any insights are much appreciated!